In the early 20th century, a culinary educator named Bertha Haffner-Ginger captured the vibrant, cross-cultural foodways of California in her California Mexican-Spanish Cook Book. More than just a collection of recipes, this book is a historical snapshot, a labor of love dedicated to her daughter, and a testament to the delicious fusion born from Mexican traditions and Spanish-speaking communities in California.
Haffner-Ginger notes a fascinating culinary truth: what was commonly called "Spanish" food in California was, in fact, rooted in Mexican Indian cuisine. Dishes built on corn, chile peppers, and tortillas were unknown as native foods in Spain. Her three-year stay in California allowed her to learn directly from native cooks, and she compiled these recipes to share the "great merit" of this class of foods, revising them into practical methods for the American home cook.
The Heart of the Cuisine: Chiles and Foundations
The book wisely begins with the essential building blocks. Haffner-Ginger declares that "chile peppers are the base of all Mexican and Spanish dishes," and provides a streamlined system for preparing pulps and sauces.
- Red Chile Sauce (No. 1): Dried red chiles, seeded, soaked, and mashed, then cooked with lard and flour into a rich, brick-red sauce.
- Green Chile Sauce (No. 2): Fresh green chiles, boiled, mashed, and similarly prepared for a brighter, vegetal heat.
- Prepared Spanish Sauce: A more complex blend of red and green chiles with sweet peppers, tomatoes, onion, garlic, and spices like oregano and clove.
Equally fundamental are the Tortillas. The book details the traditional nixtamalization process (soaking corn in lime) and offers several adaptations using cornmeal and flour, acknowledging the need for practicality outside of communities with access to fresh masa.
A Tour of Signature Dishes
The recipes paint a picture of a rich, celebratory cuisine perfect for entertaining.
Enchiladas (No. 1 - "Very fine")
This is not a simple weeknight meal. Haffner-Ginger's premier enchilada recipe is a masterpiece of layered flavors and textures.
- Prepare tortillas and dip them in hot, salted lard.
- Dip the tortilla in Red Chile Sauce (No. 1).
- Spread with grated cheese and a center filling of cooked onions, hard-boiled egg, chopped chicken, claret-soaked raisins, and chopped olives.
- Fold, cover with more sauce and cheese, and bake until the cheese melts.
Tamales
The book provides multiple variations, from the basic beef or pork tamale steamed in corn husks to a luxurious Chicken Tamale filled with olives and raisins. It also includes a clever Tamale Pie adaptation, baking the meat and masa mixture in a crust for those without the means to steam.
Chile Con Carne
Several versions appear, from a "Mexican Red Hot" style to milder iterations with tomatoes. The recipes consistently pair the spicy, meaty stew with frijoles (beans), highlighting the classic combination.
Beyond the Mains: Salads, Sides, and Sweets
Haffner-Ginger's collection showcases remarkable variety. The salad chapter features vibrant, chile-infused dressings and creations like Spanish California Ripe Olive Salad stuffed with cottage cheese and pimiento. Side dishes are stars in their own right:
- Spanish Rice: Rice toasted with bacon or onion and cooked with tomatoes and chile pulp.
- Frijoles (Beans): Prepared simply or mashed and baked with cheese (au Gratin).
- Spanish Stuffed Peppers: Both hot chiles and sweet peppers are filled with spiced meat mixtures, often dipped in egg batter and fried.
The journey ends on a sweet note with Spanish Brown Cake spiced with cinnamon and topped with pecans, and a simple Mexican Candy of brown sugar and pecans.
A Legacy of Flavor and Fusion
Bertha Haffner-Ginger's cookbook is a bridge. It connects home cooks to the authentic flavors of early California, provides a glossary of Mexican supplies (like queso Mexicano and panocha), and adapts techniques for a broader audience. It captures a moment when "Spanish" menus in Los Angeles cafes offered enchiladas and chile con carne for 60 cents, and the scent of toasting chiles filled kitchens from Sonora Town to suburban dining rooms. To cook from this book is to take part in that enduring culinary journey.
Author's Note: When attempting these historical recipes, remember that chile varieties and heat levels can vary greatly. Start with less chile pulp or powder than called for and adjust to your taste. The spirit of Haffner-Ginger's work is adaptation and enjoyment.
